The bright ideas of El Fogón Costeño, the great flavors

Slow down on Myrtle Avenue, both in the name of safety and not to miss the little red El Fogón Costeño truck – decorated with a pastoral image of burrito-eating bears – tucked away in the Chevron station (1679 Myrtle Ave.) . Enrique Buenrostro, originally from Acapulco, Mexico, drove his truck out of Fortuna for a few years and recently moved to Eureka. (Not cool to keep that from the rest of the class, Fortuna.) Most of the menu falls under burrito, torta, or burger, but what stands out are its maximalist specialties.

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The Cubana, Buenrostro’s take on the classic kitchen sink sandwich, stacks grilled hot dogs, grilled ham and pork into a golden patty with pinto beans and chorizo, plus lettuce, tomato, pickled jalapeño, American cheese and mozzarella cheese, all bravely held together by a soft roll. The crispy patty is a nice touch and adds a bit of interest even to a sandwich with so much going on.

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The Acapulco vibe shines through in a pair of Buenrostro’s signature shrimp burritos: the Costeño and the mango habanero. In the creamy Costeño, smoky California and árbol chili oil add heat to grilled shrimp, green peppers and onions, white rice, sour cream and a little mayonnaise. The shrimp habanero mango burrito, which has a little honey in its mango sauce, is inspired by his love of Chinese cuisine, and is reminiscent of a spicy sweet and sour with green and red peppers and thick grilled bacon tiles . The soft rice and flour tortilla makes a valiant effort to soak up the sauce but watch your shirt. Unless you are a bear. So do what you want, I guess.

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About Catharine C. Bean

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